With any luck they have a similar planer or wide belt. So my recommendation is to first ask your slab supplier if they can flatten both sides for you. The downside for most of you, is that these planers cost over $50k, and are completely out of the reach of most everyone reading this. So more often than not, I am able to put any slab though this planer and have it come out perfectly flat on both sides. Its also does and amazing job at removing those twists and cups better than any planer I’ve used. So it leaves a remarkably good finish when its done. So your slab get planed, sanded to 80 grit, then sanded to 120 grit, all in one pass. The commercial shop I rent time out has an exceptional 50” planer that also has two wide belt sanders built in. The problem with live edge slabs is that many are far too big to fit on a jointer. Normally to remove twists and cups, a decently equip shop will run one side of a board over a jointer, then the other through the planer. The same generally goes for planing twisted and cupped slabs. The downside to using a planer is that you need a pretty flat slab to begin with Just like when planing any board, if you send a curved board into a planer, what comes out is a thinner curved board. Marking a grid with chalk is a good way to track your progress and ensure you get the entire face.
You simply run your slab through the planer at a commercial shop, alternating sides, until you have a smooth piece of wood with no low spots. Therefore it is likely the cheapest option. It also works the fastest of any of the methods I’ll discuss.
It delivers the best finish, which means the least sanding for you. A large planer or wide belt sander is my first choice.
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